This article has been published in Turkish on Gastereamag on 22.03.2019
It’s really hard for me to describe how excited I was when it was confirmed that we were moving to Paris. As someone who had been a restaranteur for a short while, I constantly caught myself smiling. I envisioned myself at French bistrots, having foie gras, steak tartare, onion soup and french fries. And I knew there would be so much more waiting to be discovered.
We relocated in April 2017, and straight away I started creating restaurant lists for myself from international and local websites. And naturally, these lists have been rewritten so many times. Slowly we started trying out these places and eventually discovering restaurants became my biggest thrill and pleasure in Paris. There are really very few places that I would call myself a regular at. It was exactly the opposite when I lived in Istanbul. I don’t know for how long I’ve been going to beloved Cavit in Asmalı, nor can I count how many times I’ve been to Adana Ocakbasi, Kiyi or Aman da Bravo. Sometimes I think “why the difference?” but it is a totally different subject that I can speculate on forever. Maybe one day I’ll do that in a different article for you to enjoy. I believe right now, it’s better for me to introduce you to the hero of this piece;
While strolling through the 2nd arrondissement in Paris, if you enter Rue du Nil, you’ve come to the right place for food. Because it also means that you have surrendered yourself to Marchand. On this street you will find Frenchie to Go where he serves gourmet street food, Frenchie Bar à Vins for dishes to share, his wine cellar Frenchie Caviste where he sells really good wines, and of course his first child Frenchie where he offers a menu inspired by food in New York, London and Paris. On the same street, there is also a fishmonger, butcher and a third generation coffee shop. All these little shops supply Frenchie with the best produce. These collaborations are very important for the perfection that is Frenchie.
Dear Marchand is someone who had an unlucky start at life. At 12, his widowed mother dies and he finds himself at an orphanage. After some tough years, he starts his culinary education at 16. One year later, he leaves the orphanage to find himself a job at a pizza parlor at the west of France. In an interview he says he initially chose cooking as an easy way out, but soon it turned into a great passion. He spends his early 20’s in England. He works at The Savoy Grill, Mandarin Oriental and Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen. Jamie Oliver nicknames him “Frenchie” and the name of his first restaurant is born. Gregory then moves to New York where his cooking style takes its final form. Entering 30, when his wife and partner Marie becomes pregnant, they decide to move back to Paris. In 2009 he opens his first restaurant Frenchie in the 2nd arrondissement which is known as the center of textile wholesalers. The restaurant is decorated by Émilie Bonaventure. He starts his first service in the 24 seat restaurant with only one waiter. Everything else, from buying to cooking, to washing and dishes and taking reservations, he does himself. Very quickly his dishes earn a reputation by WOM and Frenchie becomes, even today, one of the hardest places in Paris to make a reservation at.
I was introduced to Gregory’s restaurants through the owners of Izmir’s most delicious Patiesserie Arpege, Metin and Beliz Saruhanli. I cannot thank them enough. Metin discovered Frenchie to Go when he first moved to Paris to follow his own dreams, and it is the first place he recommended us when we moved to Paris. In the end it was actually them who took us first to Frenchie to Go. The first time I went, somehow I chose the Reuben sandwich. I believe it was my yearning for pastirma that drove me to the pastrami sandwich. Although they have similar names, they are made from different cuts and pastrami has less spices which naturally did not satisfy my pastirma craving, but still there is nothing to complain about. The balance of cheddar cheese and beetroot coleslaw was perfect. On further visits I also tried “pulled porc” – slow cooked barbecue pork leg or shoulder – beef hot dog and the fried chicken sandwich that was added to the menu this year. I can recommend you all of them. However I’ve saved the best for last. Lobster roll in brioche. I might have taken every single one of my friends who visited us in Paris to try this, and it is the one single dish I recommend to anyone visiting Paris without fail. The perfect harmony of the celery, lobster and herb butter sauce in warmed brioche can make my mouth water. I guess I will have another one before this article gets a chance to be published. To Gregory, “Frenchie to Go” is a reflection of what he ate in London and New York. And for me it is one of the most delicious quick fixes in Paris.
Even though we go to FTG so frequently, it might still be counted as successful on our part to have to Frenchie at least once so far. I’m telling you, it’s not easy to make a reservation in some restaurants. There comes a point where you just stop trying. Luckily my wife kept her patience and we managed to get in for our anniversary. The atmosphere of the restaurant is an exact reflection of Gregory’s modest personality. There is nothing exaggerated in the decor, it is a small space, simple but tasteful place. The lighting is neither too bright, nor puts you to sleep, walls are bare with mirrors, gray topped tables and black chairs very simplistic. The staff is dressed in the same hues. In general, you feel very comfortable. The way the staff is treating you helps this feeling as well. They are warm and frank, there is no pretension. At least that’s how we felt. At dinner there is a chef’s menu of 5 courses. And like us, if you are one of those lucky people who can eat anything, you will make both the kitchen and the floor staff very happy. And even if you are not, you will be asked beforehand for your special requirements or needs. The menu is seasonal and changes according to what is available at the moment. As expected the food is also simple, but very delicious. Normally it’s not heard of me ordering chicken anywhere at dinner, but I will never be able to forget the chicken I had here. I have no words to describe the crispiness of the skin. The juicy and soft meat is a whole different discussion on its own. I have tried a lot of restaurant so far in my two years in Paris, but this was definitely one of the best two and made our anniversary dinner unforgettable. I was enjoying myself so much that this time, against all protestations from my wife, I even shared the wine with Levon this time. (And of course she was not happy) I might just as well share it with you: We had the 2016 Pinot Noir, Givry 1er Cru, Clos du Cellier Aux Moines from Damain Joblot, a family chateau from Bourgogne.
Gregory Marchand knows very well that the restaurant business is so much more than just cooking good food, but it takes a great team to be successful. He constantly puzzles over how to make the work environment better for his team and balance out the intensive work hours. He has about 60 people on his team and their happiness at work is very important to him. But of course he is experienced enough to know that too much ease might kill self-development and progress. Very recently Gregory and his team served the lunch at the World Restaurant Awards given out this year for the first time. I didn’t have a chance to attend the ceremony but Arzu was there and you can read about her impressions in her own article about the awards.
