Magnolia: A Little Family Feeling in the Heart of Paris

Magnolia (photo by Amber)

It’s becoming increasingly difficult to find restaurants where the staff don’t change all the time, where the chef is always at the helm, and where you walk in and immediately feel that warmth you’d normally associate with someone’s home or family.

Thanks to their scale, experience and expertise across different areas, large investors and restaurant groups are better equipped to adapt to economic difficulties and stay afloat. Small, independent restaurants, on the other hand, have a much harder time of it, particularly in big cities.

So when you come across independent restaurants like these, look after them. Give them a hug. I do. And Magnolia is one of the best examples of this for me.

Of course, once you get outside the big cities, it’s much easier to come across family-run restaurants and places that give you that kind of warmth. But a restaurant doesn’t have to be run by an actual family to make you feel at home. That’s precisely what makes Magnolia special to me. They may not be one family, but the atmosphere they’ve created together has that familiar warmth you find in a good family-run restaurant.

And there’s something else that makes Magnolia different: unlike a traditional family business, there are no grandparents or parents running the place. Instead, there are four young people running the show together.

Yes, perhaps Maxime Vaudin is the bravest of them all. After all, he was the one who dreamed up Magnolia and made it happen. But I’d say the other three, who joined him on this adventure, are every bit as brave.

They’re also incredibly kind. They were all happy to answer the many questions I had for each of them, without ever losing patience. Not one of them even said, “Okan, isn't that a bit too many questions?”

I think that their kindness and elegance are reflected in the restaurant itself.

(photo by Amber)

(photo by Amber)

Let me tell you a little about these four. Let’s start with Maxime.

Maxime (photo by Amber)

As a child, he used to watch Les Escapades de Petitrenaud before Sunday family lunches, and loved spending time around those big family tables. Despite all that, though, he never really imagined himself running a restaurant, at least not until university. After graduating, he started working in sales for major American tech companies. He landed a pretty good opportunity early in his career, but he couldn't shake the feeling that something was missing.

Eventually, he made his move!

Maxime — In 2022, while continuing to work, I set myself the goal of getting my CAP Cuisine diploma. From the very first classes, I realised this was the path I wanted to take, and decided to open my own restaurant. I then started doing extra shifts, both front of house and in the kitchen, at restaurants run by friends of mine. Every moment I spent working in restaurants made me even more certain that I’d made the right decision.

I finally got my diploma in June 2023 and left my job in September that same year. What makes me happiest today is being able to combine two roles: being both a business owner and a restaurateur. Compared with my previous career, it’s certainly a less secure and less lucrative path, but it’s much more fulfilling. There hasn’t been a single day when I’ve regretted my decision.

When they decided to open Magnolia, they initially teamed up with British chef Jack Bosco, whose cooking I knew, liked and had been following. Although the feedback was good, Jack’s style of cooking didn't quite match the concept Maxime and Camilla had in mind for Magnolia.

Around that time, Jack was offered the opportunity to open another restaurant. The separation gave Maxime and Camilla a chance to rethink exactly what kind of restaurant they wanted Magnolia to be. Then they met American chef Noah Howell, and the foundations of the Magnolia we know today were laid.

Of course, we need to get to know Noah too. Be patient, I’ll introduce everyone! 😉

Maxime — Noah’s experience at The Ledbury, his creativity and his energy helped us achieve the elegance and refinement we were looking for in the kitchen. His approach was exactly in line with the kind of restaurant we wanted Magnolia to be. Noah also understands how important it is to keep a close eye on costs, which is a great help to me. In fact, the whole team is not only talented in their own fields, but also understands the importance of running a financially healthy business.

(I asked Maxime a slightly provocative question: when they're trying to source the best ingredients, do he and Noah ever disagree over costs? And when they do, who usually wins? Apparently, I couldn't quite get the kitchen argument I was hoping for.)

Maxime says he hasn't regretted his career change for a single moment since opening Magnolia. Discovering a new ingredient, tasting a new wine or seeing a beautiful plate come out of the kitchen gives him an indescribable amount of pleasure. The restaurant’s first anniversary celebration was particularly emotional for him. He says he’ll never forget how happy he felt that day.

I also asked Maxime what he thinks about the future of Paris’s food scene.

Maxime — I think the restaurant world will become increasingly divided. On one side, there will be restaurants capable of serving very high volumes and remaining accessible to everyone. On the other, there will be fine-dining restaurants offering customers a complete experience, where the food, service, setting and attention to detail all come together as one.

(Oooh, Maxime! So you're on the side against two-Michelin-starred Bruno Verjus, are you? Is that it? Let the controversy begin! Ahahaha. Chef Verjus did say that the era of fine dining was over, after all.)

For everyone caught somewhere in between, things are becoming increasingly difficult.

The wave of bankruptcies should be a wake-up call for public authorities, reminding them of the need to provide greater support for the traditional restaurant sector.

Today, it’s often the bistros and independent restaurants genuinely trying to do a good job that are struggling the most.

And when they disappear, we lose not only a part of our gastronomic culture, but also a part of neighbourhood life.

(100% agree.)

And for those wondering about Maxime’s favourite places to eat in Paris, let's not leave you hanging.

Maxime — For comfort food, I really love Lohan in Belleville, especially their phở. When it comes to French cuisine, I absolutely love Amarante.

For a proper neighbourhood restaurant, I’m a big fan of Dent de Loup, particularly for its lovely cuts of meat to share. And for fine dining, I really like 19 Saint Roch.

(Chef Pierre Touitou’s restaurant is one of my favourites too.)

Is there always a woman next to every successful man? (How’s that for another question designed to stir up a little controversy?) 😁

Well, in our story, there is.

Ladies and gentlemen, meet Camilla!

Camilla (photo by Amber)

She’s the one I’ve probably bothered the most. Whenever I had a question, needed to get hold of Maxime or tried to arrange a date for the photo shoot, she was the person I turned to. When it comes to finding quick solutions, she’s simply unbeatable.

So how did she get into all this? In Australia! And with some pretty demanding working hours, too.

She started out at Fratelli Paradiso in Sydney, one of the most respected names on the city's food scene, a real institution. Three years there was enough for her. In fact, when she returned to Paris, she was even planning to go into fashion. But how could she stay away while Maxime was trying to create such a lovely place? She jumped right into the adventure.

Camilla says she loves the adrenaline of service, the precision it requires and the repetition of all those movements. But one of the best things about the job is that every service is a different adventure. One of the moments that touched her most was when a few customers left the restaurant with tears in their eyes, thanking the team. She feels proud to have been part of a story that those guests will remember as one of the highlights of their trip to Paris. She says moments like that are an enormous reward.

Brace yourselves. Here comes the question.

Service cultures can be very different from one country to another. Have you ever had customers come to Magnolia with very different expectations of service and find themselves genuinely surprised by your approach? And when that happens, how do you stay calm and handle the situation?

Camilla — Yes, it happens. We see it particularly with customers coming from cultures where service is much more intense and showy, or, on the contrary, much more formal.

At Magnolia, we try to offer a service that is attentive but natural, warm but not intrusive. The most important thing is to understand what the customer expects and find the right balance. You have to know how to adapt while still being yourself.

I think that answer sums up Magnolia’s character rather nicely. It’s a grounded, solid and cool place.

For Camilla, hospitality means welcoming every customer as if they were coming into your own home, and taking care of the food, the service and every little detail to make sure they have the best possible time. The real art of it, she says, is anticipating what customers might need before they even realise it themselves, and making sure nothing is missing.

And now, let's talk about whether they manage to leave work at work. After all, Maxime and Camilla go home to the same place once service is over.

When things start getting a little out of control during service and Maxime has to step in, does that become a source of stress for you? And do you bring work stress home with you? 😁

Camilla — We’ve been running the restaurant for almost two years now, so entrepreneurship is still quite new to us. We’re living this adventure 10,000%, so yes, work often comes home with us… and sometimes the stress comes along too!

But as time goes by, we're learning to manage those moments better. You could say we're learning as we go, and that's actually part of what makes this adventure so exciting.

Maxime and I also complement each other quite well. He generally looks at things from a calmer, more business-oriented perspective, while I tend to focus a little more on service and the energy on the floor.

Despite all my attempts to stir things up, I couldn't get any controversial answers out of Maxime and Camilla. As you can see, they're young, but mature. Don't give up hope, though. Perhaps Carla and Noah will give me something to work with. I haven't even introduced them yet! And there's also a little Q&A table at the end, with the same questions put to all four of them. So stay tuned.

But first, let's have a look at Camilla's favourite places to eat in Paris before moving on to Carla.

Camilla — I absolutely loved Chef Nao's 228L pop-up. They're opening a restaurant in the 9th arrondissement soon, and I can't wait to check it out. The flavour combinations were bold, the plates looked beautiful, and everything was just right.

I also love Dent de Loup and Yory for lunch ❤️, Petrelle for a candlelit dinner (one of my favourites too), and Le Verre Volé for Sunday lunch.

Now, let's move on to one of the essentials of any good restaurant: a good wine expert.

Meet Carla!

Carla (photo by Amber)

The fastest of the group. Well, the fastest at answering my questions, anyway. In fact, if I include all the interviews I've done and the writers I've featured in my guest posts, she might just be the fastest person I've ever worked with!

Carla is one of those people who used the Covid period to invest in herself and learn new things. That's when she first became interested in wine. And then her curiosity took over. She couldn't get enough: watching videos and documentaries, reading books, constantly learning. Towards the end of lockdown, at just 19, she signed up for WSET Level 1. She then went on to study for a degree in wine and spirits, hoping to turn her passion into a profession.

She's still at the beginning of her journey, but according to Maxime, Magnolia's ever-growing wine cellar is developing right alongside Carla's appetite for learning.

I asked Carla about the moment when her interest in wine really took a turn. You know, those wines that suddenly make you see things differently. Had she ever experienced a moment like that?

Carla — There was an evening I spent with some friends from wine school. We drank Adrien Renoir’s Le Terroir Grand Cru Verzy and a macération wine by Gérôme Bretaudeau. I was really struck by the purity and complexity of those wines. That was when I began to understand much better the difference between wines made using traditional methods and those produced with as little intervention as possible.

Carla enjoys exploring different styles. She's particularly fond of well-made wines with minimal intervention during the production process. For everyday drinking, her favourites are white wines with a saline character, a rounded texture and a long finish. Jura, southwest France, Alsace, Spain, Austria… It all depends on her mood and who she's with. She also loves drinking wine with food, which gives her the opportunity to finish a meal with something like a late-harvest wine (vendanges tardives) or an oxidative wine.

When it comes to her favourite French wine regions, she finds it difficult to choose. Jura, Alsace, Roussillon, the Loire and Savoie are the first that come to mind, but she says it's really hard to pick just a few.

Outside France, she's been particularly interested in Spanish wines lately. Whites, reds, macération, sweet, oxidative… Wines from all over Spain never seem to stop surprising her. She also loves Greek wines.

Naturally, I had to ask her about Turkish wines too! 😁

Carla — “I've tasted Turkish wines before at La Dive, and they were really good! If you bring me some more, I'd be delighted to try them.”

To all my producer friends who follow me: my DMs are open! 😁🍷

I also asked Carla about her experience working in wine production.

Carla — I spent a year taking part in a work-study programme at a small winery in the Faugères region. Being there and getting a close look at the life of a wine producer was incredibly interesting. Learning about every stage of production, seeing the unexpected situations that come up in everyday work and understanding the challenges they bring was a great learning experience.

And dear readers, the moment you've been waiting for is finally here! Carla has at last given me an answer that might actually cause a little controversy! 😂

If a winemaker you've admired for a long time offered you the chance to work together, would you consider leaving the Magnolia family for that opportunity?

(I can't just ask easy questions all the time, can I? 🤓)

Carla — Ahhh… I think I would! The opportunity to see something different and dedicate myself 100% to wine for a while is something I could really enjoy.

If the other three members of the team are reading this answer for the first time, well, that's what I call investigative journalism… Sorry, I mean writing! 😂

I also asked Carla about the relationship between Paris and wine.

What role do you think Paris plays in the development of wine culture? And how has being part of the city's wine scene influenced your own approach to wine?

Carla — We're lucky to be able to attend so many tastings in Paris and to be relatively close to a great number of wine regions. Thanks to wine fairs and professional gatherings, we often get the chance to taste different wines and talk to the producers themselves.

This also encourages people to discover new things. Paris is a very open-minded city when it comes to wine, which gives us more freedom with the restaurant's wine list. We can include different and exciting options, even among the wines we serve by the glass.

Lately, when I go out to restaurants in Paris, I find myself naturally gravitating towards white macération wines, or skin-contact wines. And I'm rather happy about that.

What's your take on this style of wine? Do you think it's a trend, or a natural evolution of wine culture? What's happening in Paris's wine scene at the moment?

Carla — I think macération wines are fantastic. They're particularly good options in restaurants because they offer so many possibilities when it comes to pairing them with food.

I don't think it's a trend. In Georgia, white grapes have traditionally been fermented with their skins, just like red wines. This method gives the wine an incredible character.

Personally, I don't think I drink enough of these wines, but I believe they definitely have their place in the wine world. As people start looking for lighter wines, macération wines can be a lovely alternative, even a good middle ground.

(Alice Freitag's book Skin Contact is a great read if you're interested in Georgian wines!)


After all that serious wine talk, I moved on to something a little more gossipy. I asked whether she and Noah bring work home with them. She said it's difficult not to, but they've somehow learned to find a balance.

I also tried to start another little controversy, but no luck again! Apparently, they rarely disagree when it comes to food and wine pairings. So who's more accommodating, Carla or Noah?

Anyway, let me introduce you to Noah first. Then we'll decide! 😉

Noah (photo by Amber)

Noah is something of a key player in the team. He's the one who turns Maxime and Camilla's vision of Magnolia into actual dishes. And with Carla alongside him, the food and wine come together beautifully.

I mean, what more could a chef possibly do for a restaurant, ladies and gentlemen?!?! 😂

Noah's earliest memories of food go back to watching his mother cook. He remembers enjoying chopping things up and helping prepare dinner. He also remembers selling pizzas at his school's open day when he was just 11. He says he even enjoyed the rush of service. I guess some things are clear from an early age!

Noah was born in Kentucky, USA. And when I think of Kentucky, bourbon and barbecue naturally come to mind first. So I came up with a few either-or questions for him:

Kentucky beef or Charolais beef?

Bourbon or Breton whisky?

Burgoo or cassoulet?

And finally, Derby pie or tarte Tatin?

Noah — Kentucky beef, bourbon, cassoulet and tarte Tatin!

You can already see the balance in his cooking from these answers! Two each!

If I had to describe the balance on his plates in just two words, they would be generosity(the Kentucky side of him) and precision (the side shaped by his experience in London).

After the US, he moved to England, where he worked at Whatley Manor and then The Ledbury. These experiences taught him what a professional kitchen is really about, and the importance of discipline. In fact, by his own admission, that's when he really learned how to cook!

I was wondering what else I could ask Noah when my daughter Yasemin came up with a question of her own. I really liked it, so I'll let her take over.

Yasemin — When you're building a team that you trust enough to know a dish will be right even when your back is turned, what do you look for?

Noah — Finding the right people takes time. But if you give them a working environment where they feel safe and trusted, they'll do their best. I tend to trust people easily because I think I can quickly tell whether someone is capable of doing the job. Even so, I always do a trial before trying anything completely new.

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank my daughter Yasemin for that lovely question! ❤️

The first thing Noah struggled with when he arrived in Paris was, as you might have guessed, French.

French, French, French… Everyone's favourite little headache! 😂

So, what does he think has changed during his time in Paris?

Noah — I don't think Paris's restaurant scene has changed very much over the past three years. But I do see more chefs moving away from the harsh, raw plates associated with the St John style, and towards more refined food and technique in a more relaxed service environment. And it's exciting to see so many new restaurants opening all the time.

Of course, you've probably been wondering the same thing: why would an American chef, after working and developing his skills in London, choose not to return to a country where he speaks his native language? Why choose Paris instead of a city with such a strong food scene as New York or Chicago?

And now, ladies and gentlemen, we arrive at the most romantic moment of this whole article.

I'll let Noah give you the answer in his own words:


Noah: “I followed a beautiful girl.” ❤️

Noah: I followed a beautiful girl. (photo by Amber)

I should probably have ended the article right there.

But I also have a little Q&A table for you. I couldn't share it before introducing the whole team, so here it is. Let's see how well they really know each other!

Lovely team (photo by Amber)

Serenity in Paris

When I started this blog, I thought that I would be writing regularly, but I have not been able to do that. Unfortunately, it has been a while since I’ve written something new. When I first started the parisbywalking account on instagram, my aim was to walk all of the streets of Paris and post pictures of buildings, statues, museums, graffiti, restaurants and views that I liked. I wanted to share these along with their stories and facts which I found amusing. The blog came later as a tool to share all this in more detail without the restraint of the limited space Instagram allows. Well, but what was next when all of the above was done? That part I hadn’t yet contemplated.
In the end, I walked and I walked and at last the city ended and there was nothing left to see. I thought, “So what now?” Yes there are still around 200 restaurants that I want to go to but I decided that I don’t want the next step to be to turn my account into a restaurant rec account. There are already a lot of accounts that do that, and they do it with a lot more technical background info added.
But then what could I do? I kept thinking and decided to focus on a question that I have been receiving from a lot of people around me lately: “We always go to the same places. You have been around the whole city, why don’t you take us to different places?”
It was around this time that on a wednesday at the Marché President Wilson one of my followers approached me and told me that she loved my photo and was always curious about the places that I posted about and asked me if I would recommend her a route to wander through. This suddenly helped me put it all together and come to a final decision.  
I had to organize walking tours in non-touristic parts of the city!

When I write it like this, it seems really easy right? Well for me, it was not so.

All my life, making decisions about business has given me nightmares and it has always taken me a long time to decide. Although in the end, my decisions never fail me, still this knowledge doesn’t make it any easier to take that final leap.  Well it is also because since I was 18, all my work dreams and plans have been taken away from me by outside factors in the end. Therefore you might understand me when I say that whenever I get a new idea, the second thought that comes to my mind is “Why bother, it won’t probably work out in the end” Maybe this is something that I should discuss with my own therapist and not here. 🫣

Well, if there are any psychologists among you, please DM me. 🤓

Ok, maybe it’s better I get back to writing about Paris.
In the end, I took that leap once again as a “micro-entrepreneur” to start my one-man company and finally I’m beginning to organize my walking tours. I have already done a couple of test runs. I have already announced the structure of the tours on Instagram and I will soon be announcing upcoming tour dates. Here I wanted to explain in more detail why I’m starting from 20th Arrondissement. In a documentary I watched recently, they were talking about the benefits of writing since it allows you to come up with and realise things that you hadn’t thought of before. Let’s see what writing about the contents of the tour will bring out about the 20th Arrondissement. Before all else, we should all agree that I’m not a professional tour guide, which means these will not be tours full of historical and technical information about the area. More likely, they will be sightseeing tours where we chat about our own Paris stories. In our last trial tour, two friends who have moved to Paris at the same time as us confessed that they hadn’t seen any of the streets on my route before even though the route was only 30 min away from their home by metro. But like they also commented, it is way easier to have someone guide them through what he has discovered before rather than trying to find these places by themselves. I believe the fact that no one has any time to waste any more helps a lot what I’m doing.

The 20th Arrondissement has been a later addition to the Paris city limits. Charonne village which used to have vineyards is also a part of this arrondissement. A part of my tour takes us through the village’s main road which still exists today. A lot of the streets on the route have an architectural style completely different from the rest of the city. It actually feels like a small town. I think this is the main reason why I decided to start my tours from this area. When we first moved and before I started my Instagram account I remember very clearly thinking that what makes Paris so powerful and famous cannot only be the grandeur of the citycenter, there must be something more and I have to find that out. As I walked through all of the arrondissements I believe I understood it better. I think the power of the city comes from the variety it offers. Both the variety in human profiles and the variety of architectural styles work to form an harmony that adds to the magic of the city.  What sets the 20th apart from other arrondissements is that it also includes a agroecological farm. Although it is stuck between buildings, it still maintains a sustainable farming system that also gives job opportunities to those in need, while also arranging workshops for students and gives the city habitants a chance to connect back with the land. You can also buy fresh vegetables and herbs for your own kitchen. I have read that there are also a couple of restaurants in the area that source their produce from this farm.

What else is on the tour? In summary; for example, although it doesn’t appear very exciting on the first look, the street where the tour begins from has been around since 1672. Then we walk though a street where obviously the most plant loving neighbours of the city have come together to live and come upon an extraordinary artdeco church. From there we move onto the part where the vineyards used to be, although they have lost their battles to urbanization long ago. However we discover that there are still some dead-end alleys in the area curiously. We come out on a plaza that I love which was chosen in 2020 by The Guardian as the most authentic neighbourhood of Europe and we use this opportunity to take lovely pictures of the place. Next we see one of the biggest and therefore most unexpected statues of the city and ask ourselves “Why?” Right after, we see another building where we once again ask “Why?”, I try to explain you the why, although I’m not sure how convincing the answer is, because personally I, myself, am not convinced. We come to “La Môme” Square where we discuss the statue made in his honour and what the architect was probably thinking when he was creating it. When we reach the square, it means that we are almost done but you have to soldier on for a small climb up two more streets to finally reach the really surprising and awarding end of the tour. We end in a totally unexpected neighbourhood where we cannot help ourselves and start the actually pointless discussion of what it would feel like to actually own one of these homes and wondering who lives here. In the end, if you have enjoyed the tour, I will also be recommending 2 restaurants and a wonderful café to rest your tired feet and enjoy yourselves. The cafe is both a nice way to end the day after lunch or for those who want to skip the lunch part. Especially the serene part at the end of the tour makes one feel as if they have gotten out of Paris, therefore I decided to name this tour “Serenity”. I loved to give this tour such an appropriate name without thinking that now I would have to keep naming all my forthcoming tours. 🤦🏻‍♂️

My First Gourmet Tour

This article has been written on 22.04.2020

If this has been posted and you are reading it, then it means we are both healthy and well. I hope you are too. I know now, how lucky we have been. Looking back, I see that we have been a little too courageous, but we had our reasons then. One, I already lived here, and had to come back to Paris to my family. Two, we had been waiting for Inanc to visit us for so long. Three, we had organized the perfect eating spree. Put yourself in my shoes, one of the most loved friends of the whole family is coming to visit, and she is one of the best chefs of Turkey. How can you give up the perfect plan?

(As this was happening, the situation was not as serious as it is now.)

We have celebrated our third year in Paris in April. I have been obsessively trying out diffent restaurants, cafes, bakeries, chocolate houses and patisseries since we moved here. I mark my favorites on my mobile map and there are 100. I have been to all of them at least twice, and I can recommend all of them without a doubt. When friends come to visit, I recommend them places to go to that are always in the area they are staying at. Since they also do their own research, usually my responsibility is not that heavy. But now the case is totally different. The whole itenary has been left in my hands. It is very exciting because I have to take Inanc Celengil, who you know as the chef of Aman da Bravo Istanbul, but who for me is one of my best friends, to as many local, various and delicious places as I can in 5 days, digging into my 3 years of Paris experience. The pressure I was putting on myself was huge. I believe you will understand the weight if I tell you that I was creating excel sheets to plan the program.

It was a very lucky coincidence that our first day was my daughter’s birthday. Of course the birthday girl should decide where she wants to go, but I might have manipulated her a little. Thankfully, Yasemin also likes our neighbourhood restaurant a lot. La Table J’M became a part of our lives in 2019. Chef Julien Joalland his partner Isabelle Mesnil bought an old restaurant in an unpopular street of 16th Arrondissement. They changed the decor and the kitchen and reopened. This was one of my dreams when we were moving to Paris. An intimate neighbourhood restaurant that is close to home, has good food and is reasonably priced. We anticipated its opening excitedly. And our dreams have come true; we have already celebrated 2 special occasions here, we have had special deserts prepared for us, champagne has been popped, and we come back from holidays with local produce we find interesting for Julien, who uses it in his menu if he sees fit. Yes, you can guess by now. The menu has whatever is available in the market seasonally. They serve updated modern versions of classic French dishes, daily. Tonight’s dinner deserves Inanc’s comments rather than mine, so I’ll let her speak.

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İNANÇ ÇELENGİL

Well, what I remember from the first dinner was how I couldn’t take my eyes off the hamburger made especially for Yasemin, and how the cheese and mushroom ravioli that Okan ordered against all our protestations was actually the best dish. Of course a steak tartare was ordered right away, compared with ours at the restaurant and any short comings were evaluated. I can still picture as clearly as today and taste the chocolate ganache and layered chocolate crepe suzette birthday cake made for Yaso. And what was most impressive was the warm attitude the owners had to welcoming their guests, I hope they can get through this period in one piece.

Following the success of the first night, we started our second day early. We dropped Yasemin off to school with İnanç and went to the market. But there were obstacles on the way such as s branch of La Pâtisserie, opened in 2011 by one of Paris’s most mediatic chefs Cyril Lignac, and Benoît Couvrand.  Cyril Lignac moved to Paris in 2000, and had a very strong start to his career in Alain Passard’s Arpège, then moved onto another very famous establishment as chef, to Pierre Hermé. He has written 40 cook books, along with all the restaurant, tv and workshop business he accomplished. As much as he is a hard working person, I also believe that he has a very strong team too. Unfortunately they didn’t have the small sesame bread that resembles a ‘kumpir’ when we went, but they had the olive bun. We only made it to the market after we had a coffee and a croissant at the bistro next door. The market in the 16th Arrondissement is known as the most expensive in Paris, but at least the product quality is equally high. I love wandering around markets, the colors, the smells and the chit chat, and to have a chef to stroll along with is priceless. I hadn’t done this for a long while. My first market visit with a chef was with my old partner Didem Şenol Tiryakioğlu. We used to go for our restaurant. She would suddenly get an idea by something she would find in the market and put it on the menu right away. I would be impressed by her knowledge and creativity. Doing this again with Inanc took me back those days and happy memories. Things I did not even see when I was by myself gained a new perspective when Inanc drew my attention to them. I will definitely buy more stuff from herb stands in the future. For example, Inanc showed me something called garlic herb. We added it to a lot of dishes after Inanc left. We might have gone a little crazy at the mushroom stand because morels were in season; I’m sorry for anyone who had to wait their turn behind us. So our menu for dinner at home on Thursday was decided. We had a lot of herbs and mushrooms. What else were we having with those? We can put this question aside for now because our lunch and dinner is already set for tonight. So Inanc, did you enjoy the market?

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İNANÇ ÇELENGİL

Of course I enjoyed it a lot, there were so many different varieties of vegetables, herbs, meat, fish and cheese which we didn’t have in our markets. And I have a confession to make. I find gozleme very meaningless, it is a dry phyllo filled with a tasteless filling, usually very, very dry, I never understand why it is so popular. But we had a gozleme in the market made by a Turkish couple. They rolled out their phyllo there, used fresh herbs from the market and it really was the best gozleme I ever had. We also bought puntarella which I would be cooking for the first time, it was very exciting. There was arugula flower with rich yellow petals that exploded on your taste buds when you ate it. We have only recently started seeing the flowers of herbs and vegetables in small producers. It hurts a little that you can find them so easily in a city market in Europe and have no access to in Turkey. It makes one think that maybe we should be visiting farms rather than markets in Turkey.

In France, on Wednesdays the schools are either off or half-day. Our school is one of the half-day ones. So after picking up Yasemin at noon, we head off to have burgers like we usually do. Baāgaā is a very special burger place. They buy their bread from one of Paris’s most important bakers Jean-Luc Poujauran. Their meat is from French animals raised and fed natural grains in the Japanese tradition. Every morning, the meat is minced for that day. Their recipes were created by Thomas Boutin, chef and owner of de Le Vieux Crapaud. (Of course I tried his restaurant too, and it was very good) Because we go very frequently, they don’t even ask what Yasemin is having, anymore. Meat and bread! Sometimes I choose a cheeseburger and sometimes the hot burger. This lunch, the unexpected choice comes from Inanc. Bikini Burger! (I had never had it before) Without reading the ingredients, she ordered it straight away, thinking it would be the same as the legendary bikini sandwich of Tapas24 in Barcelona, and I couldn’t stop her. Unfortunately their only common denominator was mozzarella. There was no truffle, nor jamon Iberico. Baāgaā’s bikini turned out to be vegetable burger with mozzarella and piquillo pepper sauce. And judging by the size of it, it did not seem very appropriate for anyone looking to wear a bikini in the summer either, right Inanc?

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The Bikini was 3 sizes too large for my slim figure. I was very sad to see that this was not the bikini in Barcelona, however there were still things for me to learn from. It had a very strong grill taste that made it feel like a real burger, I remember the meaty oyster mushroom, good mozzarella, tomato sauce and pesto. And the thinly sliced raw green beans gave a delicious crunch to the burger.

On Wednesday night we had reservations for one of the restaurants on the top of my “to go list” and the only place Inanc herself had requested to go. Chef Stéphane Jégo’s restaurant Chez L'Ami Jean!  It is the oldest Basque restaurant in the city and it has been run by Brittany born chef since 2002. He’s a chef who sees his team as family, uses freshest seasonal produce, is constantly in touch with his suppliers, is happy to attract the attention of his guests during the service but can suddenly disappear without notifying anyone at the end of the service. When the pandemic started in France and all the restaurants closed down, he wrote a petition to President Macron and his ministers, asking that this health disaster is accepted as a natural disaster by the government. It turned into a campaign on Change.org. It was signed more than 20.000 times in the first 48 hours. He was requesting by this petition that establishments, especially smaller ones could claim damage from insurance companies if the situation was considered as a natural disaster. The ministry of finance responded by saying that they would not be announcing it as a natural disaster, but they were preparing a support package for the industry and they were in discussion with the insurance companies to get them involved. It is very assuring as a small establishment that the government is responding to your situation right away. Ok, after the additional information, we can go back to our dinner. I’ll leave the word to Inanc to talk about it. Chez L'Ami Jean and Baāgaā and a common characteristic, they both buy their bread from Jean-Luc Poujauran.

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I found out about this place from one of Aman da Bravo’s regulars who had told me that I would love it, it was so me. And I have been following it ever since, keeping alive my dream to eat one day one of the dishes the chef smokes by torching dried herbs over the food. We started off with grilled asparagus, bonito flakes and cream cheese, followed by caramalized octopus with a very aromatic salsa verde. Even though Aycavan does not like duck, we ordered it anyway, and she liked it with all the hazelnuts and so on. Scallops with spinach root and leek was compliments of the chef and made me regret not having such scallops in Turkey. Our smoked meat was leg of veal and came with an amazing broth, we spooned it off. We weren’t still full, grilled skate was served with bacon fried to the consistency of a potato chip. At this point we met the chef and between his very little English and my nonexistent French managed to understand that he had actually come to Istanbul for Parabere Forum and had lunch in my restaurant on a day that I was not there. We kissed each other’s hands to congratulate each other, and it was a very proud moment. There was no room left for dessert, but he sent us his famous rice pudding anyway. They serve it with salted caramel and granola. You spoon off from a large bowl onto your plate and garnish it as you like. We packed the left overs for take away and ate it for 2 more days. What should we have done, thrown away that precious rice pudding?

It was an amazing dinner, a fabulous ambience. You had to pull out the table to be able to squeeze into your seat, that’s how close everyone is to each other. Is it a problem? Never. It is actually a pleasure to share the same space with people who are also there for the food.

We had chosen Champs-Élysées for our morning walk on Thursday. The avenue will undergo huge changes by 2025 and there will no more be an 8 lane traffic. The sidewalks will be expanded, the rooftops will be planted and there will be small electric buses, more bicycle lanes and even a tram line. Last year, world’s most famous department store Galeries Lafayette opened a branch here with a very different concept to its existing store. It is a very modern 4-storied store filled with the latest designs. For me the most attractive floor is the food market on the lowest floor, it is filled with everything you should see and taste, food wise. I believe that not only gourmet lovers, but anyone interested in design and packaging should also go and see it. Many of Paris’s signatures names and delicacies, from its oldest patisserie Stohrer, to its most important chocolatier Pierre Marcolini, to legendary chef Alain Ducasse’s“Le Chocolate” are here.

After about an hour, we exit the store to go to lunch. Our destination is a restaurant in the 5th Arrondissement. It is called “Invitez Vous Chez Nous”, meaning ‘’we invite you over to ours”. Chef Julie and her husbad Aurélien do serve you in a home environment. It is one of my favourite places in Paris for lunch. They serve a daily menu of seasonal food in a warm and cozy atmosphere. The food is accompanied by a small wine list and beer from small producers. The food price parity might be another reason to come back here. They are open on weekdays for lunch between 12:00 and 17:00. They are closed for dinner and over the weekends. As an old restauranteur, I keep thinking that this is the dream job. What do you think Inanc?

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There are only 2 people working. One is serving and the other one is in the kitchen. Which makes you think right away, ‘what? So is the cook washing the dishes too?’ Well yes. This being the case, you wait as long as it’s necessary, and nobody is complaining. The menu is planned very cleverly. It is a limited menu as would be expected, for example the rice and sauce on my shrimp curry was also served on the vegetarian plate. There are a couple of slow cooked dishes that require no preparation ahead and can be reheated and served. It was super sympathic and everything we ate was very delicious.

After lunch we have our coffee at DOSE, founded by Grégoire and his cousin Jean-Baptiste. It is a brand well known among coffee aficionados in Paris. They import coffee from different regions of the world. The also serve healthy, mostly plant-based lunches, homemade granola, sweet and savory pastries and fresh juices. They also have an online website where they sell coffee equipment along with good beans. This store in 5th is a little smaller than the one at Batignolles, however it has a prime location because it is the only third generation coffee shop in this area and it is located in the best local shopping street, Rue Mouffetard. This was one of the streets I wanted to take Inanc to. I can check another item off my excel sheet. The history of this pedestrian street goes back to antiquity. İt is a street filled with butchers, cheese shops, bakeries, and wine shops. If you are a Meryl Streep fan like me and have enjoyed Julie & Julia, here is another reason for you to like this street. The shopping scene was filmed here.

I must confess that we didn’t buy anything here. But there is a reason. Because we are headed to another shopping street. It is as nice as this one; Rue Poncelet. We go from the 5th to the 17th Arrondissement. This one’s history also goes back to 1400. This was a holy route that goes up to the old Montmartre Monastry, for me today it is a holy route for food shopping. It is open everyday except Monday and Sunday afternoons, and filled with everything from butchers, to bakers, to charcuterie, fish and cheese. For me, it is one of those street that make you really feel that you are in Paris. I know of a Saturday when we spent more than 3 hours here. After the initial discovery tour, we decide to buy a little charcuterie and cheese to accompany the wine tonight. You must not forget that we already bought the herbs and morels yesterday. Who knows, maybe a new recipe will be born from this article.

Our primary target is good cheese, and the store is one of the best on the street: Alléosse. They specialize in aged cheeses and their selection is based on the accountability of their suppliers and the quality and the taste of their products. Comté in French, however the rest is not so easy. Fortunately, the genteman on the other side of the counter doesn’t let me suffer anymore and switches to English. Therefore my precious guest also gets involved in the process and I leave it to her choose from about 100 varietes in front of us. 10 minutes later we are able to exit the store with Selles-sur-Cher goat cheese and a Ossau-iraty we chose in order to have a more ‘smelly’ option. Good cheese should be accompanied by good bread. Right across Alléosse, we enter Liberté, an artisanal bakery. Production and sale is from the same location. They have 3 shops in Paris, and 2 in Tokyo. We bought cheese and bread, we have one more stop to make before heading home. For charcuterie, we go to Delitaly. The Spanish and Italian charcuterie are my favorite. Therefore Delitaly is one of the right addresses in Paris. The cold counter on your right is filled with fresh pasta, olives, cold tapas and salads. If I were alone here, I would be spending a fortune, but fortunately Inanc is with me and she is target oriented, the cold cut counter at the back of the store. I cannot take my eyes off all the tomato sauces, balzamics and olive oils on the other side as we exit, but maybe another time, we should really get out of here now. Tonight we will be enjoying ourselves at home. Inanc is here on vacation and so we don’t want her in the kitchen, but cannot stop her once she sees all the new ingredients we found. At least let me turn on the oven for you!

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We blended the morels, puntarella, garlic herbs, asparagus, fresh thyme, rosemary, garlic and olive oil, added some delicious French butter on top and put it in the oven. On the side we had water cress and cherry tomato salad with a vinagrette rich in lemon juice. The cheese was more in my mind and I was actually less curious about what was going on in the oven. But as a whole, it was a very nice dinner.

Dear readers, the big day has finally come. For Friday lunch we will be going to Septime, one of the most talked about but hardest to make a reservation at places in Paris which at the same time has the most complicated reservation system. And today Seda and Alp have arrived from Istanbul. Looking back, they might have made history as our most courageous friends during this period. It has even become a running joke among us that they came to Paris for a single lunch at Septime. You will soon understand why. I had been chasing this reservation for months. We had only been able to come here twice in 3 years, one of which was by pure coincidence. Both times the dinner was amazing. The quality of the service, choice of wine etc were all very explanatory as to why the restaurant was always full. After a while I had given up on trying to make a reservation. But this time I decided that I was willing to do whatever it takes for my friends. I was stubborn, I was ambitious, I even e-mailed a blogger whom I didn’t know, naturally to no avail, but then one day they answered my call and in 2 seconds I had a lunch reservation for a party of 5. At Septime, the 37 year old young chef Bertrand Grébaud changes his menu frequently according to the availability of seasonal produce, like at most of the other places we have been to. He advocates for sustainable farming and uses as little animal produce as he can. Before Septime, he has earned his first Michelin star at a restaurant in the 17th Arrondissement, when he was only 26 years old. After opening Septime, he made the 50 best list in 2013 and also earned his star here. (It is still so in 2019.) His latest project is to create a farm at the old air base in Brétigny-sur-Orge (Essonne) which is run by Fermes d'Avenir Association where part of the farming will be based on permaculture. Apart from Septime, Chef Bertrand has a walk-in sister restaurant called Clamato that serves sea food, a wine cellar also called Septime and a small boutique hotel in beautiful nature called D'un Ile, 2 hours outside of Paris. I ate in all of them and they were all really top quality. I saw once again the importance of having qualified people work for you and the strength of a good team. Seda and Alp came straight from the airport and we met them there. However we don't hug, we keep our distance but we've missed each other so much. Since we have no allergies, we are ready to eat anything they serve us; Alp chooses the wine, cornering our waiter. Well, it’s his right, at the end he came all the way for “just one lunch” Time for a confession; I think our first two dinners were better. But maybe Inanc will comment better on it.

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I believe that tasting menus put a lot of pressure on chefs. I’m sure that when it comes to creativity, a menu you are pressured to change constantly causes some problems. After a while, rather than showcasing what you do best, you probably start serving some plates that are not memorable, even a little mediocre for the sake of creating something new. I, myself, am not a chef who can push herself in the area of creativity. If I have a new idea, I put it on my menu, but I don’t serve something new just because it is different from what I had before. If there is no inspiration, I choose to serve what I cook best. But it seems the world disagrees, because tasting menus are still the hype, but anyway.

This is why I think we were not able to taste the plates that earned Septime its name. Our first course was a porcini soup with porcini and chestnut. It was followed by raw scallops, raw almonds, berries served with a berry sauce. I remember wishing it was more sour. We continued with grilled asparagus, served with asparagus sauce and water cress. For me, it wasn’t impressive. But I must also remind you that we had set our expectations very high. Then there was a stew of black truffle, bone marrow, pancetta and jerusalem artichoke. The main course was steamed seabass served with rhubarb sauce and caramalized endives. Dessert was a sorbet but I don’t remember the flavour. The experience as a whole was of course pleasant, but it wasn’t the best of this trip

However the main adventure was what happened after lunch. We recieved news from Turkey that they were closing the borders to France. İnanç, Seda and Alp were of course confused and panicked. Their families, kids, their whole life is in Turkey. They want to fly out that night but there are no available flights. The announcement by Turkey is very vague, there are no details. Is this restriction valid for citizens or not? Will there be rescue flights? Will they be quarantined on return? And many more questions come to mind. Normally, you would expect the embassy to have all the answers in such a case, but it seems they are equally clueless. We head out to the airport but cannot find any solutions or answers, we all head back home or to our hotels, empty handed. It seems we have no one to talk to. Later on the deadline to lockdown changes, only to be changed once again later on. The certainty and the consistency behind these decisions leave us nonplussed. Seda and Alp return on Saturday, and Inanc on Sunday.

Saturday morning we make plans in a mood totally different from our previous days. We decide a walk will clear our heads. Towards lunchtime we feel like a snack and to to Gregory Marchand’s FTG about which I’ve written in Gastereamag.  Anyone who comes to visit us eats once at FTG became true for Inanc too. As usual the kitchen staff is working away seriously in the kitchen.

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We have found THE Lobster Roll, it cannot be called just eating and we basically drowned ourselves in it. It is the best and the most expensive fast food I’ve ever had. If you make the mistake of converting euros into liras, you feel the dread. The fries are amazing. It justifies twice over why fries are call French fries. It is served with ginger aioli and it is so delicious.

And the last dinner!

As we leave the house for our Saturday dinner, France also starts announcing its own security measures, closing all restaurants and cafes starting tonight midnight. Restaurants and cafes who have not closed even during both world wars or the terrorist attacks of 2015 are closed. Without realizing it, we are also on our last dinner out along with Inanc. Our last dinner is at Restaurant Eels. This is my wife Ayca’s discovery. We ate here a couple of times thanks to her and have always enjoyed it. It is a very modern, modest, comfortable but chic place. It has a Scandinavian feel to it. Its owner chef Adrien Ferrand has been awared best young talent in 2015 Gault & Milau Awards. The whole team is young, like himself. They have opened Eels with sommelier Félix Le Louarn in 2017. They had been working together at another famous Paris establishment, Ze Kitchen Galerie. The menu consists of 4 starters, 4 main courses and 4 desserts. You can either order a la carte, or a fixed menu. In 2019, they were chosen as a new and notable discovery in the 50 Best list.  I believe this young chef and his team will be every successful in the future as well. The ambience, service, wine and the food are all worthy of our last night. I think this will be one of the first places I want to come back to when life returns to normal. Normally I had narrowed our options for tonight down to two and I let Inanc decide.

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I’m not sorry that we chose Eels in the end, it made us very happy. We orders lamb loin that was served with a fantastic red curry and beurre blancla. Its fat was crispy, and the black beans under the meat were a very nice accompaniment. Raw mackerel, aioli and a thin garlic breadcrust. Raw oysters, black and red caviar, and an aromatic herb butter. We ordered duck once again and were not disappointed. We finished off with a cream cheese dessert covered with chocolate. The wine pairing was very good too but with all the excitement around the food and the travel nerves, I forgot to take pictures. It was a very adequate finish in the end.

Our last meal was fried eggs with mushroom and a traditional baguette by Ayca. Then we said our goodbyes. I’m very lucky to have been able to make it back home directly, and not getting infected along the way was the cherry on top. I even had all three seats to myself on the plane. But my fortune in life is that I have best friends who live in Paris and know about food, which is also my biggest misfortune because they are also so far away. Point of view is relative.

 

I have nothing to add to Inanc’s last words, but I want to remind her something: Don’t forget who made the sandwich you had on the plane!!!