Coffee, me & 3micro cafés

The topic of this article is coffee, so let me start by talking about my relationship with it. I’ll get straight to the point—I had no relationship with coffee before moving to Paris. 😅 Surprising, isn’t it? A grown Turkish adult resisting the reality of Turkish coffee! What can I say? I didn’t like it, couldn’t like it. However, shortly before moving to Paris, when opportunities arose to meet other parents after dropping off or picking up my daughter from school, the stress of the inevitable question, ‘Shall we grab a coffee?’ pushed me to take an interest in coffee. With a little research, I realized that Paris wasn’t much different from me when it came to coffee. Parisians drink bad coffee at bistros. I’m talking about 2017. Back then, there were no more than ten third-wave coffee shops in Paris. And yet, the French played a significant role in the global spread of coffee. They smuggled coffee seeds from Madagascar and planted them in their colonies in the Caribbean islands, including Haiti, ensuring they didn’t miss out on the coffee trade. In fact, the first coffee shop in Paris, Café Procope, opened in 1672. And yes, it’s still open today—though it’s no longer a café, but a restaurant.

The third-wave coffee shops I discovered in 2017 all sourced their own beans—they were both roasters and cafés. As I slowly tried them all, I began to explore the vast world of coffee. During this time, I also read three books: Coffee Isn’t Rocket Science, The New Rules of Coffee, and The Curious Barista’s Guide to Coffee. ☕️ Meanwhile, I witnessed Paris’s coffee scene evolve. According to an article I read, specialty coffee sales in France have risen by 14% since 2019, reflecting growing demand for artisanal and ethically sourced coffee. The overall coffee market is expected to grow by about 1.14% annually between 2023 and 2025. Another study suggests that the French coffee market will see a compound annual growth rate of 5.7% from 2024 to 2030. I couldn’t find any official figures on the number of coffee shops opening and closing in Paris. If you ask me, it feels like a new one opens almost every day. 😂 The meaning of the word ‘café’ has also become quite muddled. There are the classic spots selling good coffee and a few pastries, but then there are also places serving tapas and wine. The ‘café’ scene in Paris has grown more diverse and layered. Of course, being an old-school person who enjoys simplicity, I’ve dedicated this article to three micro-coffee shops. I must admit, the idea of running a place like this is always lingering at the back of my mind. While I keep dreaming, let me introduce you to three young men who’ve turned their dreams into reality with their micro coffee shops.

photo by Asli

The first café is the oldest among the three. I say ‘oldest,’ but they’re all very new. Mini Café is Loïc’s place, and its location is one of my favorites. It’s been open since January 2023. Loïc spent a few years in Asia, where he had the chance to visit coffee plantations in Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos. Honestly, I can’t think of a better motivation to come back to Paris and open a café. He enjoys all coffee drinks, as long as they’re well-executed. Over time, he’s worked with various roasters, but currently, he serves coffee sourced from Frukt, a Finnish roaster. Loïc’s thoughts on the Paris coffee scene align closely with mine: good coffee is becoming a part of French life, creating opportunities for new investments, concepts, atmospheres, and recipes. Mini Café is located on the Île Saint-Louis, just next to Île de la Cité, the island at the heart of Paris where the city was founded. After visiting Notre-Dame, you can stop by to try their coffee. Don’t worry—the usual tourist crowds aren’t an issue here. Especially on sunny days, it’s a joy to hang out around Loïc’s café.

photo by Asli

photo by Asli

Since you’ve visited Notre-Dame and made your way to Mini Café, you must have an interest in history. In that case, head over to Bastille, one of the most important squares in Paris and French history. From there, it’s just a 13-minute walk to Abner’s place, Saint Barista. Isn’t that a fantastic name? He opened the shop in June. Compared to the other café owners, he seems the luckiest to me because he was practically born into the coffee business. He said; “My grandfather had a coffee finca in Guatemala, my home country.” Although he didn’t take an interest in coffee until he was 17, he grew up observing how his family managed the business. When he applied for a job at 17, he had to complete coffee training, and that’s when he finally embraced the family trade. Drawing on all these experiences, Abner loves connecting with his customers, sharing both his coffee and his craft, and getting to know the people who walk through his doors. He doesn’t have a preference for coffee from a specific country; instead, like me, he enjoys tasting and drinking coffees that are made with care and passion. Lately, he’s been experimenting with Aeropress brewing and is increasingly pleased with the results. He prefers to work with a different roaster every 2-3 months. While I was preparing this article, he was collaborating with DAK, a Dutch roaster with Canadian roots. He also offers flexibility to his customers by providing two espresso options.Abner hopes to see a friendly community develop in the Paris coffee scene, where business owners and customers take care of each other. From what I’ve observed over my seven years in Paris, if business owners or chefs do their job well, Parisians always support them and show their loyalty. I believe Saint Barista has the potential to thrive for years to come.

photo by Asli

photo by Asli

Now, let’s move on to our last micro-coffee shop, the newest of the trio. By the way, I assume you’re still continuing your tour of historic squares and have now arrived at Place de la République. 😁 (For some reason?!? 😁) When you’re tired, I have another great coffee recommendation just six minutes away on foot: Press Café. This is the newest spot, having opened in July 2024. I think it’s the perfect time—August in Paris is quiet, making it easier to settle into a new shop and routine.David got hooked on coffee six years ago and has been planning to open his shop for three. He found inspiration in the small coffee shops of Amsterdam and Japan. Colombian coffee is one of his favorites, standing out just a little more than the rest. At Press Café, David works with two excellent roasters. He uses espresso beans from Honduras roasted by Lomi, where he’s found a nice balance. For gentler brewing methods, he chose fruitier beans from Colombia and Brazil roasted by Fève. Another thing I love about Press Café is the music selection—David has great taste. While the shop isn’t big enough to sit and relax inside, you can enjoy the music and coffee outside on a nice day. David also sees the Paris coffee scene as inspiring and full of potential. He believes many neighborhoods still need good coffee shops and quality coffee.

One common feature of these three places is that, as long as there isn’t a line behind you, you can enjoy a delightful conversation with Abner, David, or Loïc. The chats often start with coffee but naturally flow into life. This even made me wonder—could baristas take the place of bartenders we see in movies, the ones who love to chat and listen to people’s troubles? 😁

My Routine

It's clear that I haven't been able to establish a rhythm for my writing habit. We can debate whether I'm putting in enough effort, but after a certain age, when you change countries, many old and new habits take different durations to settle into a routine than you might expect. Especially, like me, if you come to a country with your spouse’s assignment without finding a job, and if you don't know the language at all, then your situation becomes even more challenging. It's essential to find activities that will become part of your new life and keep you disciplined. It could be something as simple as taking your child to and from school. This is very important to me; chatting with my daughter while going to and from school, witnessing her growth, is one of the most enjoyable ways. As she grows older, our walking time has decreased, but that's okay; every age has its pleasures. Next year, she'll be in sixth grade and will prefer going to school without her father. This means that I'll need to develop a new habit for mornings next year. It might be exaggerated, but wouldn't it be great if I started doing sports, right?!?!

My second routine in Paris became "going to the market." Except for school holidays, you can see me every Wednesday at Avenue President Wilson market. Located between Iéna Square and Alma Square on Avenue President Wilson, the market is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, opening early in the morning and closing at 2:30 PM. Frankly, the variety of products on Saturdays is much better than Wednesdays; if you have the chance, I recommend going on Saturdays. I'm not saying this because I go there regularly, but among the markets I've seen while walking the streets of Paris, this is one of the best. One of the characteristics that make up the city's spirit is each neighborhood's own shopping streets and local markets. The Parisians' commitment to this culture is one of the most important factors for me to love this city. Watching an elderly Parisian with a grumpy look and a seller who you wouldn't believe enjoys his job sharing recipes with each other in a butcher's shop is a wonderful moment for me. So when the "home delivery in 15 minutes" initiative came to Paris, I told my friends it wouldn't work, and I was right. Especially in food shopping, reducing or cutting off the contact between seller and customer, like trying to change the culture of Parisians, is also not possible.

In the 20 arrondissements of Paris, 72 markets are set up. You can check where and on which days they are set up on the city's official website. To rent a space at the market, you need to obtain permission from the local municipalities. The process typically begins with the applicant applying to the relevant administrative authority, which evaluates the suitability of the vendor and the products they plan to sell. Among the key requirements are providing fresh and locally sourced products, offering a variety of items, keeping the stall clean and organized, and clearly displaying prices. Additionally, local authorities expect vendors to create a friendly and professional atmosphere by communicating with customers in a warm manner. Generally, the places where the products come from and the production methods (such as organic-bio) are indicated on the labels.

Seeing dried grapes, dried apricots, dried figs, and quinces coming from Turkey through the labels makes me very happy, indeed. Here, at one of these stalls, there's Azdine. I can say that I made my first attempts at speaking French with him at the market. He's so polite that he has been putting up with me for years. In addition to dried fruits from Turkey, his stall also offers many varieties of nuts, mezes, and the types of olives that I buy most frequently. In France, olive and olive oil consumption is significantly lower compared to Italy, Spain, and Greece. So finding olives that suit my taste is not easy either. Thanks to Azdine, he allows me to taste 2-3 varieties before deciding which olives to buy. He has been doing this job for 30 years. Azdine's attitude reminds me of the vendors in Yeşilköy market from my childhood. Always cheerful, always talkative, and always loud. The flower stall across from him is his favorite because the scents wafting from there especially in spring make him very happy. He says that chatting with customers is the most enjoyable part of his job, and indeed, in the small question-answer interviews I conducted, all the vendors mentioned that chatting with customers is their favorite part of their jobs.

Azdine was the last to reply to my e-mail so he deserves my “sympathy” (photo: Amber)

One of the most enjoyable conversations you can have is with Carine, right next to the Azdine’s stall. She has been at the helm of her own company, BaraPatates, since 2007. In my opinion, she's the queen of the market. The quality of the products on her stall is always top-notch, and she has a variety of mushrooms that you won't see at any other stall. Because she also loves cooking at home, she pays great attention to ensuring that the products on her stall are as high-quality as those she brings home. She doesn't put any product on the stall that she doesn't like. This attention to detail and pursuit of good ingredients is a tradition passed down in her family because Carine's family has both a catering company and butchers. Now she's passing this tradition on to her children. One of my favorite moments at the market is when Carine shares recipes with a very chic Parisian woman. I know, this might get me into trouble in the future because when I improve my French to that point, Carine won't want to see me around her stall anymore because I'll be trying to ask for a new recipe every time. One of the things market vendors dislike doing the most is carrying crates, and Carine thinks the same way, rightfully so, she even had to undergo shoulder surgery because of it.

Kneel before the queen of mushrooms ! (Photo: Amber)

Another market vendor who doesn't particularly enjoy the setup stage is Herminia 'Mimi' Pereira at the Saint Vrain cheese stall opposite Bar a Patates. Setting up Mimi's stall is more challenging. The care needed to transport cheese and other dairy products is different from that needed for potatoes and onions, of course, so preparing the stall requires a serious level of concentration and patience. Once that's taken care of, the job becomes easier. Mimi's favorite moments in her job are when customers are told to her how satisfied with the products they purchase. I recommend visiting the Saint Vrain stall especially on Saturday mornings; the variety of cheeses there can be overwhelming. Lastly, let me tell you why Mimi and I get along so well: Both Mimi and I love comté cheese the most among all the cheeses. Actually, this isn't all that rare because it's really hard not to love comté. It's made from unpasteurized cow's milk in the France-Comté region near the Swiss border in eastern France. It's one of the most produced cheeses in France, and its production process undergoes strict controls, including calculating how many cows can be on how many square meters of land. These standards are referred to as French Appellation d'origine Contrôlée (AOC). By the way, Comté pairs beautifully with the white wines of the Arbois appellation in the Jura region. You should try it when you come to Paris.

note for the smart-a.. ; we are aware that the cheese is not comté but we like this photo the most.

(photo: Amber)

Talking about white wine immediately brings fish to mind. I confess, I never used to buy fish from the market in Turkey, so I didn't buy it here in the early days either. Then I put an end to this nonsense and started buying it. After making a few changes to the stalls over the years, I've been benefiting from Jean Pierre's 40 years of experience for the last 2 years, and I started buying fresh fish and seafood from his stall. His advice on how to cook them has improved the quality of our fish dinners at home. Jean's advice is very accurate because he cooks at home. Of course, Jean's least favorite thing about the market is the cold weather. The reason he complains more than other vendors is actually quite clear: in winter, having to clean fish with hands exposed to water! He's not entirely wrong, don't you think?

gratter & vider ; the first 2 French words i learned for fish shopping. (photo: Amber)

When Jean wants to buy something from the market, of course, he prefers vendors who bring organic products from their own gardens. One of these stalls is ValdemarBerreira's. They grow their products on lands 40 minutes outside Paris. You should see the variety of herbs in spring; they are incredibly colorful and fragrant, and towards the end of summer, they have various types of tomatoes. Valdemar took over this business from Joël Thiébault, who was famous as a supplier for starred restaurants, in 2016. His wife, Zilda, also joined the team. Like her colleagues, Zilda doesn't like the cold of winter or the "canicule" (heatwave) of summer. Since such good products pass through her hands, she uses them all in her own kitchen, and she can't resist sharing them with her customers if the new recipes she tries turn out successful. As a customer, what more could you ask for? Good ingredients and recipes; it's hard not to love this stall!

Zilda & greens (photo: Amber)

We've got the vegetables, fish, cheeses, and nuts; but where will we get the fruits? I'll answer right away; fresh fruits await you at Mourad's stall. Especially if you love berry varieties, they're always very fresh here. I can say that my daughter's obsession with Fuji red apples started because of this stall. I always have the opportunity to taste whatever fruit I want, just like I'm used to from Turkey. I'm always offered the fruit I want according to the season; this warmth and sincerity are the behavior I value most. Mourad might be the youngest person at all the stalls I shop at, both in terms of age and work experience: It's only been 10 years. I was there at 7 of it Mourad! He can't cook at home, but learning to cook is among his future plans because the products he sells put pressure on him. He says it doesn't seem possible to stay away from the kitchen when such good products pass through his hands, well, go ahead Mourad !

She knows why that apple is there. (photo: Amber)

Finally, let me tell you about the stall that makes me the happiest when I see it at the market. It's the stall of İbrahim and his family, meticulously making “gözleme” in their pristine white outfits. The only downside here is that they can't come on Saturdays because they set up their stall at the Versailles market on Fridays and Sundays. İbrahim also cooks at home because it's part of his family's traditions. They have different varieties of “gözleme” at their stall. My favorite is the one with baby spinach and feta cheese. They make sure all the ingredients they choose are additive-free. Therefore, the taste is equally excellent. We can't enjoy many good Turkish meals outside our home in Paris, but İbrahim and his family's varieties of "gözleme" delight us.

İbrahim’s flour toss. (Of course, he doesn’t do anything like this, it was just my absurd idea.) photo: Amber

Among the regular customers of this market, there are also famous chefs. During my Wednesday routine, I sometimes come across Matthias Marc and Takuya Watanabe. Of course, even though I feel excited to be buying ingredients from the same place as them, the lack of any similarity of the final dishes between what we cook at home and what they cook brings me back to reality. 😃